In our
opinion, this country is getting ready to become a tourist Mecca.
The national airline, Uzbekistan Airways operates to all major internal
cities and major western hubs with reliable and reasonable quality and
inexpensive service. The airline
seems to be replacing its dreadful old Russian fleet with modern airplanes. 
We
sample lodgings from simple bed and breakfast guesthouses to top American
hotels. Quality varies
dramatically. Tashkent boasts excellent Sheraton and Intercontinental hotels. From our own experience and that of people we speak with, the
B&Bs are excellent value and reasonable quality. We recommend the B&B in Bukhara run by our intrepid
tour co-coordinator, Mila Akhmedova visit@b1.silk.glas.apc.org
at
$30.00 per night, including breakfast. In
October 2000, we are her first guests in a brand new and very comfortable
B&B. She takes a close personal
interest in our trip arrangements, arranging for a car and driver and setting us
up with English-speaking guides. She helps us arrange to meet
the local community. She is willing
to go the extra mile and there is no extra charge. She
is a gem!
For
Westerners, the largest drawback in visiting here is the food. Fat-laden lamb is the staple.
Plov, a mixture of rice, some vegetables and lamb, dripping in oil is the
standard for lunch. Chicken, when
available is delicious. The local shashlik (a.k.a shish kabob) can come as lamb, beef, chicken or fish, although the latter is not
served much. Salads and fruits are always questionable because of uncertainty
about sanitary conditions. Every
meal seems to be served with tomato and cucumber salad.
We manage to survive a whole week without any serious stomach problem.
A
word about that all important subject - toilets. These are definitely an issue for westerners. Sanitary conditions range from brutal to
brutal-and-a half although we find recently built clean and very acceptable
facilities at the Samarkand Registan and airport.
Our
guides are world-class. Their
English is peerless in a country where most people speak only Uzbek, Tajik, Russian or
Farsi. Marina in Khiva,
Makhsuma in Bukhara and especially Valentina in Samarkand have solid, in-depth
knowledge of the history, geography, society, culture, living styles, economics,
politics and religion of Uzbekistan. They
are willing to give personal opinions when asked, and are flexible when we
change our plans.
The End