Khiva

Situated in the incredibly remote Kara Kum desert, alongside the Amu Darya (Oxus) River, Khiva, the medieval slave town is said to date back to the time of Noah’s son, Shem.  This ”transcontinental pit stop” on the Silk Road is slowly being bled dry as the waters of the river are diverted to feed the ever-demanding cotton trade of the country.

 The old city of this desert hide out for slave traders on the Turkmenistan border is truly an undiscovered gem.  The old city with its small and friendly population and incredible 19th Century restored Islamic architecture seems frozen in time. Khiva was a pivotal city in Russia’s land grab of the 19th Century as the big bear moved inexorably south in its futile attempts to gain access to India.   Today this “den of iniquity lost in the desert sands” is a tranquil and very pleasant place to pass hours of quietness contemplating its violent past which so contrasts with its present day tranquility.   

 The city abounds in quiet streets, ancient mosques and madrassahs (places of Islamic learning), a market and friendly merchants with interesting but fairly typical merchandise for sale.  We stay at a local bed and breakfast with adequate and very inexpensive accommodation, including dinner, bed and breakfast.  It’s a great chance to meet fellow adventurers from France, New Zealand and other parts of the world.

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