Ukraine & Uzbekistan Summary

In October, 2000 we visited Ukraine and Uzbekistan.  We went there because our we were looking for out-of-the-way places that had not yet been spoiled by tourism.  We had a great trip, met some fascinating people and had a fine adventure. Three highlights: 

We hired a launch to tour around Sevastopol harbor in the Crimea where the Russian and Ukrainian Black Sea fleets (800 ships) are berthed.  Bribed our way onto 150' Russian "sub killer" and played captain.  Cost including the launch and crew and sub killer was $10.  For another $10 we might have taken the ship out and shot a torpedo or two. For $100 perhaps we could have started a nuclear war (sobering thought!).  Our “guide” even showed us his book on the US Navy.  And when we asked to see the computers, there were none, even though the ship was only 12 years old! Yes that's big Al at the helm.

Then, we spent the Jewish holiday of Sukkoth in Bukhara, Uzbekistan with the Great Rabbi of Central Asia.  He took us under his wing as his honored guests for the holiday.  What made this special was that having traveled 9-12 time zones halfway around the earth, not speaking the language and knowing no one, we were taken in by this community and taken care of.  No questions asked, nothing expected in return.   Amazing.

Finally, we gave a Marketing 101 class to Peace Corp Volunteer Diana’s students in southern Ukraine who are trying to start women-owned businesses.  Starting a woman-owned business in Ukraine is like pushing water uphill.  There’s no business expertise, no resources, no rule of law, no infrastructure, rampant sexism, and little belief that they can use Western methods.  Who knows how long this transition will take, but not in our lifetime.

It was also a huge eye-opener to learn how former Soviet Union countries are adopting to a new system of government and economics.  (And we came back to the USA wanting to kiss the ground over and over again.  And will certainly never complain again about the post office, telephone company, internet access time or plumbing ever again.)

The national character has so much to do with how they make the transition.  Ukrainians are dour.  They don’t smile.  They’ve been beaten down since dirt was old and have never had a tradition of trade or entrepreneurship.  Therefore, when independence came in 1991, they just traded one dictatorship which assured food and a minimal living standard for another which allows higher prices and no social safety net.  Yet they continue to expect it and wish for the old days when they didn’t have to worry – and they didn’t have to think.  So today they worry about it but don’t seem to be doing much about it.  That’s not their national character.

The Uzbeks, however, were historically traders and are still traders.  Their transition is a bit easier, but make no mistake, still very tough.  But they smile, and smile easily.  Put Uzbekistan on your travel list, not just for the people, but for the spectacular old Silk Road sites.

Also, the people are amenable and the dollar goes a long way.  So with some imagination, you can do really interesting things, like going home with some Jewish congregants in Bukhara.  One activity, which we thought of too late, was to have a community stage some sporting events for us, including wrestling in which we could have participated.  Also, their version of polo played on horses, but without mallets (using hands instead, yes, while on horseback) and instead of a ball, a headless carcass of a goat filled with wet sand.  We probably could have played in that, too.  All very doable and all very affordable.

We hope you enjoy this chronicle of our travels

Alan and Alan

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