Setting the Scene
Land
of the Burnt Faces, source of the Blue Nile, Africa’s Petra, poorest country
on earth. 
These are some of the descriptions given to this vast land
called Ethiopia, twice the size of
Texas, lying to the south and east of Sudan, south of Eritrea, west of Somalia and north of Kenya.
Ethiopia, with a population of 64 million (18th most populous in the
world), first burst into the world’s
consciousness and conscience in the 1960s when the
human results of a devastating famine were seen on television, first in England
then in the rest of the West.
Today, with the world watching the devastation of Afghanistan by war it
is easy to forget that Ethiopia too was similarly devastated by a war with
Italian fascists in the 1930’s, followed by a 17-year brutal Communist-backed reign of
terror coupled with a civil war and ending only one year ago, a ridiculous and hugely
devastating war with its ex-province of Eritrea. That war was a huge price
to pay for pride. By GDP/capita standards, it is
the world's second poorest nation. (http://www.cnn.com/WORLD/global.rankings/
)
Yet, this
beautiful, but at times, tragic country can be proud
of some notable achievements – including being the only African country to defeat its
colonial oppressors (with some help from Britain), producing some incredible long distance athletes and being
a country of impoverished but peaceful and deeply religious people who live
their lives daily according to the ancient laws of Moses. It is a country where
today, Christians, Muslims and a few Jews live in harmony with relatively good mutual
respect for each other. Ethiopia is doing some things right.
The land is remarkably fertile, which is truly puzzling when one sees so
much human deprivation in the countryside. The recent history of the country is war, famine and
government by terror. Past land
mismanagement and bad luck with weather and government policy have resulted in periodic deadly
famines. In the spectacular highlands of the north, scenes like this one
are endless - Great green fertile valleys abound alongside rusty old
Russian battle tanks. And ominously, Ethiopia and
its northern neighbor, Eritrea have been at peace for nine months although rotting bodies still litter the
war zone in the extreme north.
Ethiopia is a strange and
troubling land. My trip in
October, 2001 with fellow
adventurer, Alan Bernstein shown at left on top of a tank, was hard work,
although it could have been far worse. We spent about half our time
careening at breakneck speeds over unbelievably bad roads for 8-12 hours per day
just getting from place to place. Other
than gigantic smoking lorries and buses there are almost no cars, not even
bicycles. On the other hand there
were people everywhere, donkeys carrying staggering loads, goats, camels and cattle.
We successfully managed to avoid killing anything or anyone although two idiotic
donkeys managed to knock their skulls into our fast-braking Land Cruiser.
The poverty and deprivation
was
quite ghastly and deeply uncomfortable. We've all seen the TV pictures but it
has to be seen up close to be truly comprehended. Wherever we stopped, people
just gawked, begged or greeted us "YOU!". Some
people's cruelty to their animals also upset me greatly.
It is a harsh land. The hotels were the worst we have experienced
anywhere - period! The
western food was awful. We ate
mostly the local unleavened bread, injera, which has the look and consistency of
carpet underlay but is actually deliciously addictive when
dipped into wat - a spicy, fatty stew of fried goat, lamb mutton or
sometimes vegetables. Almost no one seemed to eat vegetables and there was very little
fruit. I got totally and
deliciously buzzed one
night drinking the sweet, fizzy local honey wine (tej) purchased directly from a back
street shebeen for 20 cents. There was a constant smoke smell that seeped into
your nostrils and still lingers. It arose from a hundred million fires and
burning incense that pervades the countryside. It is an ancient smell.
So, you may ask, what is the
good news? What indeed? For one thing, we felt perfectly safe at all times. The
people are curious, gentle and passionately religious.
I never saw anyone get angry. There seems to be little energy for
anger. Life is too hard. Many of the children and young adults have
magnificent features and warm, wonderful smiles. Sadly, these beautiful
people seem to age rapidly due to their harsh lives. The north is mainly Orthodox
Christian with a minority of Muslims and very few Jews. The harmony between them
is palpable. Many of this ancient
tribe of black Jews, or Falashas, have already departed for Israel.
The strong Judeo-Christian culture dates back 3,000 years.
Ethiopians were Christians when Europe was still pagan.
We saw Africa's Petra - incredible large churches hewn into solid rock
over 800 years ago by the first Christian king in Africa. The old
monasteries with ancient
illuminated manuscripts and remarkable wall paintings done in Byzantine style
are stupendous in what they tell of Africa's great past. Friendly priests
and monks, some quite verbal and interesting were happy to pose for a photograph in
return for a 20 cent contribution. I had a constant sense of glimpsing into
antiquity. Prices were lower than
any place I've ever visited. Almost
everything seems to cost 10 to 20 cents.
We saw many wonderful birds and
Gelada baboons with gigantic red breasts. We
stood awestruck viewing the gigantic rainbow-filled waterfall, second largest in
Africa, at the very source of the Blue Nile.
I photographed a wedding and was invited to dance and celebrate with the
wedding party on a ledge overlooking the Blue Nile and great Lake Tana.
And to top it, we met at his home with Ethiopia's great cultural
scholar, the remarkable Richard Pankhurst, grandson of the famous English
suffragette.
But
to put it all in perspective, heaven on earth is returning the last few miles into Addis Ababa on a paved road
(what a concept) with a comfortable room at the excellent Sheraton, and a
hamburger for dinner. Never taking anything for granted was never truer.
I'm glad I went. I learned much, especially how good it is to be
home. But mainly I learned that there there is always hope.
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